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DAWN AT DARJEELING

Darjeeling owes’ its grandeur to its natural beauty, its clean fresh
mountain air and above all, the smiling resilient people for whom it is
a home. Known for its natural splendor, Darjeeling’s best gift to its’
visitors is the dawn of a new day. The mountains awaken first with a
tentative peeking of the sun. A steep ride, five kilometers from Ghoom,
or an invigorating walk up a steep incline, leads sun worshippers to
Tiger Hill. The air is chilly with darkness and damp. To the east, a
dull orange sun emerged painting the sky with brilliant strokes of
magenta, gold, orange and fuchsia. The snow capped Everest, Kabru,
Kanchenjunga, Jannu and other peaks slowly emerge from slumber to start
a new day. The sun worshippers gasp at the magnificent sight. As the fog
lifts in the slowly penetrating sun, the town gradually comes alive.
Amidst brewing of tea, the sing-song Gorkhali which is the local
dialect, rises and falls like music.
CLIMATE

The best time to visit
Darjeeling is from March-May or September-November. The rains which
start by May end are heavy downpours making living conditions cold and
dreary. In winter there is a drastic fall in temperature from the
summer’s 15 to 25 degrees centigrade to 2 to 10 degrees in winter.
SITES TO VISIT
No visit to Darjeeling
is complete without a visit to Ghoom which is 6 km away from the main
town. The hillock is dominated by the famous Yiga Choeling Monastery
which has 15 images of the Maitreya Buddha. Belonging to the yellow hat
sect, the monastery contains many ancient palm leaf and paper
manuscripts in Tibetan script. The Museum of Natural History is where
one can see a fine collection of Himalayan animals, reptiles, birds and
insects. If flora is what one enjoys, then Llyod Botanic Garden is the
place of interest. It has a marvelous collection of alpine flora and
orchids.
Padmaja Naidu Himalayan
Zoological Park is the only center in India for the breeding of the rare
snow leopard. The Ussurian tigers and the Himalayan black bear are also
among its attractions. Neighboring the zoo is the Himalayan
Mountaineering Institute established in 1954 by the then Prime Minister,
Jawaharlal Nehru, in the wake of the conquest of Everest. Tenzing Norgay
was its first Director and Advisor till his demise. A kilometer from the
zoo is the Darjeeling-Rangit Valley ropeway. Considered the longest in
Asia, it is a thrilling ride with splendid views. If one is looking for
souvenirs, then the Tibetan Refugee Self Help Center. It produces
excellent Tibetan crafts like carpets, wood and leather work.
Established in 1959 after the Dalai Lama and his followers fled Tibet,
it is a haven for ethnic Tibetan art.
PLACES AROUND DARJEELING
KALIMPONG
Across the river,
Teesta lies lush Kalimpong. The road weaves lazily up a steep incline to
suddenly open up to an unexpected panorama. The first sight to greet the
eye is the steeple of the Mac Farlane Church. Once the headquarters of a
Bhutanese Governor, the word kalim means king’s minister and pong, the
stronghold. It is also called Kalimpong or the black spur by the locals.
However, the meaning that is popularly accepted is the Lepcha
translation of the name which is “the ridge where we play” as the local
tribesmen used to organize field sports here. At an altitude of 1250
meters, it has an area odd just 3.5 square miles with an approximate
population of 40,000. Its rolling meadows are as yet untouched by
tourism.
Prominent amongst the
places of interest is a school, Dr. Graham’s Homes which was founded by
Dr. John Anderson Grahman in 1900. This has been built on the slopes of
Delo Hill, three kilometers from the town. For a bird’s eye view of the
picturesque place, one has to go to Durpin Dara, an observatory point
atop a hill from where one can get an awe-inspiring view of the mighty
Himalayan ranges. Numerous monasteries dot the area among which the
Pedong monastery and Thongsha Gompa are the oldest. Another monastery of
interest is the Tharpa Choling Monastery constructed in 1937 by the
Yellow Hat sect which is situated at Tirpai Hill at a distance of two
kilometers from town.
About 4 km from town
towards Teesta is located Kalimpong’s famous Swiss Welfare Dairy. It was
set up many years ago by a Swiss missionary, father Andrea Butty.
Cheese, butter and other dairy products of this center are in great
demand and the quality is comparable to the finest that is imported. The
visit to Kalimpong won’t be complete unless one spends several hours at
the two bazaars. One on the main road, the other near 10th mile. It is a
unique experience to see villagers turning up in their local costume at
the bazaar on weekly market days to sell their farm products.
MIRIK
Set in idyllic
surroundings, Mirik is the place for those seeking peace and
tranquility. At an altitude of 1967 meters, the climate is cool and
temperate. The Sumendu Lake at the bottom of Mirik Spur is the most
dominating feature reflecting the magnificence of the eastern Himalayas.
The lake is 1.2 kilometers long and is fed by perennial streams. Riding
on the colorful boats or crossing the lake over an artistic bridge,
leads one to a charming path through forests on the other side. Fishing
is a popular past time here.
Mirik is also almost
completely surrounded by some of the best tea gardens of the region. It
is also the largest producer of oranges in West Bengal. The orchards are
on a spur two kilometers from Mirik. Tourist cottage constructed from
locally available material have been constructed in the dense forest and
provide all modern facilities for a comfortable sojourn. The DGHC
Tourism (Tourism Deptt. of the Darjeeling Gurkha Hill Council) organizes
conducted luxury coach tours from Darjeeling to Mirik and back on the
same day during the tourist season.
TREKKING TRACKS
Darjeeling was the
first hill region in India where organized trekking was first conducted
by Dr. Hooker in the 1840s.
The most popular of
treks is the one through high altitude areas across the Singalila range
in Darjeeling. The trek starts at Maneybhanjang (2134 m), goes to Meghma
(2900 m), Toughu (3070 m), Gairibas (2621 m), Sandakphu (3636 m), and
Phalut (3600m).The fourth and last day is the return trek to Darjeeling
which may be taken along the along the same route or via Ramman, Rimbick
and Bijanbari.
Another fascinating
high altitude trek is in the Kalimpong region from Relli, Pankhasari,
and Neora to the highest point in the areas, area, Rochella (3,400 m).
The recommended routes are the ones from Darjeeling to Kurseong through
the Old Military Road, Darjeeling to Singla, Darjeeling to Bijabbari and
Darjeeling to Tiger Hill. The last of these treks is most popular as
once at Tiger Hill (8,482 ft), one can stay overnight to wake to a
wonderful sunrise the next morning.
The best time of the
year to undertake this region is April-May and October-November. It is
advisable to carry one’s own provisions.
HOW TO REACH
There are flights from
Calcutta to Bagdogra which is 90 kilometers from Darjeeling. The nearest
railhead is Siliguri. The Toy train runs from New Jalpaiguri/Siliguri.
There are taxis available from Bagdogra, Siliguri and New Jalpaiguri. If
one has never been to Darjeeling and believes that real holidaying lies
in the enjoyment of experience, then one should take the mini train from
New Jalpaiguri. Completed way back in 1881 by Franklin Prestage, the
mini train is the best way of traveling to the old Gurkha station of
Darjeeling.
WHERE TO STAY
Hotels abound in
Darjeeling. Besides the International Youth Hostel, there are more
recently opened resorts as well. There is a hotel which boasts as the
place where Jinnah met his wife whom he courted and married soon after.
Many of the old villas and estates that passed into Indian hands once
the British left have been converted into hotels. Hotel Shangrila which
is built along the main promenade, Chowrasta, is typical of the
traditional pagoda style architecture. It also houses a travel and
trekking agency. |