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THOSE WHO BELIEVE AND DARE
Kedarnath is one of the most sacrosanct pilgrim spots of north India and
is flocked by people from all corners of the globe. Besides its
religious significance, it is also visited by those who love to conquer
the rough terrain of Garhwal. Lapped in the green hills of the
Himalayas, the serene atmosphere here, with its cool and gentle breeze,
offers an ideal tourist retreat.
LOCATION
Kedarnath
is situated in the Uttar Kashi district of the northern state of
Uttaranchal. Very close to the Indo-Chinese border, it is the source of
the Mandakini River. It is couched in the scenic locales of the Garhwal
Himalayas at 3583 meters above sea level. It is very cold in the winters
with the ground being covered with snow. In the summers, the mercury
barely crosses the 20°C mark. The place experiences about 150 cm of
rainfall during the monsoons and so the best time to visit is between
May and October. Kedarnath is near to Rishikesh (234 km) and Dehradun
(250 km).
THE MYTHOLOGICAL PAST
According to legend,
Lord Shiva wished to elude the Pandavas, who had come to seek penitence
for having killed their kin in the battle of Kurukshetra. He took refuge
in Kedarnath in the form of a bull. Bhima, one of the Pandava brothers,
found Shiva amongst a herd of cattle. Having identified the meanest and
most arrogant of the herd as Shiva, Bhima is said to have grabbed him by
the hindquarters. What remains at the shrine in Kedarnath is the rear
end of the bull, with the rest of its body scattered throughout the
Garhwal. Shiva dived into the ground leaving behind him a hump on the
surface. This conical protrusion is worshipped as the idol. It is the
main site of the Panch Kedar temples.
IN AND AROUND
The Kedarnath Temple is
believed to have been built by the Pandavas and is almost 1000 years
old. In the 8th century AD, it was refurbished by Adiguru Shankaracharya.
Dedicated to Lord Shiva, the idol is in the form of a pyramidal lingam.
It is one of the 12 jyotirlingas in the country and is revered highly.
The statue of Nandi, the divine bull of Shiva, stands at the entrance of
the temple. During the winters, the statue is carried to Ukhimath, and
is reinstated in Kedarnath in the month of May. The breathtaking view of
the Kedardome peak behind the temple is a major attraction.
The Samadhi of Adiguru
Shankaracharya is located just behind the temple and is the final
resting place of the saint. The Bhairavnath temple, situated to the
south of the main temple of Kedarnath, is dedicated to Lord Bhairav, the
deity who guards the main temple in winter when it is closed.
A solid path from near
the main bridge, before the town, crosses the Mandakini to the left of
the valley, and ends 4 km away at the glacier. At its edge is the
Chorabari Tal Lake, now known as Gandhi Sarovar, as some of Mahatma
Gandhi's ashes were scattered here. It is also said that Yudhishthira,
the eldest Pandava, departed to heaven from this lake.
Close by, around 800 m
from the lake, is the source of the Mandakini. One can also cross the
river by the small bridge behind the temple, and scramble up the rough
boulder-strewn moraine to meet the main track.
At a distance of 6 km
from Kedarnath is Vasuki Tal, which is perched at a height of 4135
meters above the sea level. It offers a splendid view of the Chaukambha
peaks and is an important spot in the itinerary of trekkers. The
trekking base to Kedarnath is at a distance of 15 km and is named Gauri
Kund, where there is temple dedicated to Gauri, the consort of Lord
Shiva. One can also find thermal springs of medicinal value here. At the
confluence of the Son Ganga and Mandakani rivers is Son Prayag, at a
distance of 20 km from Kedarnath.
Around 25 km from
Kedarnath is Triyuginarayan, the mythological venue where the wedding of
Lord Shiva and Parvati was solemnized. It is a short trek of 5 km from
Son Prayag. An eternal flame, which is said to have been witness to the
marriage, burns in front of the temple even today.
At a distance of 49 km
is Gupt Kashi, which is famous for its temples of Ardhnarishwar and
Vishwanath. Ukhimath, at a distance of 60 km, is the winter home of the
deity of Kedarnath and the Rawal (head priest) of the temple. Agastmuni,
at a distance of 73, km has a temple dedicated to sage Agastya.
Situated on the
Gopeshwar-Ukhimath Road, about 40 km from Gopeshwar at an altitude of
about 2500 meters above sea level, Chopta is one of the most picturesque
spots in the entire Garhwal region. It provides a breathtaking view of
Himalayan ranges surrounding it.
Chandrashila (93 km) is
a beautiful peak providing a captivating view of the other snow-clad
peaks. The trek from Tungnath to Chandrashila offers a rare sight of the
rhododendron forests and the alpine meadows. Deoria Tal is 2 km from
Chopta-Ukhimath Road. This beautiful lake is at an altitude of 2438 m
and gives a scenic view of the neighboring snow-capped peaks. This land
is an ideal place for angling and bird watching.
The four other Panch
Kedar sites are located in the vicinity of Kedarnath. Madmaheshwar,
where the navel (nabhi) of Shiva fell, is at a distance of 74 km from
Kedarnath, at a height of 3289 m. Tungnath (90 km) is perched at an
altitude of 3680 m. Here Lord Shiva is worshipped in the form of his
arms (bahu). Rudranath (142 km), at a height of 2286 meters, is a very
important pilgrim spot and Shiva's face is worshipped here. Kapleshwar
(160 km) is at an altitude of 2134 meters and Shiva's locks are
worshipped here.
TREKKING
Apart from
being a place of pilgrimage, Kedarnath is a trekkers' paradise as well.
The Garhwal Himalayas provide ample opportunities for the adventurous
and the daring. The trek starts form Gaurikund, which is easily
approachable by car or bus. From Gaurikund to Rambara the trek follows
the river Mandakini. It is a little steep initially but then becomes a
gradual climb through forests. There are several beautiful waterfalls
along the way. From Rambara the trek to Kedarnath is much easier.
Kedarnath to Vasuki Tal
is a continuous ascent along a goat track. The view of the Chaukambha
peaks and the Mandakini valley is delightful from here. The final trek
to the Vasuki Tal is downhill for a kilometer. Paian Tal is about 1 km
northwest and at the bottom of it, one can see rectangular slabs of
rocks. From here, one can go on to the Khatling glacier.
HOW TO REACH
The nearest airport is
Jolly Grant, Dehradun, at a distance of 251 km from Kedarnath. Small
airlines have connecting flights here. The nearest railheads are
Rishikesh (234 km) and Kotdwar (260 km), from where one can find trains
to Dehradun. Kedarnath is approachable by road from all important places
of the Garhwal hills-Rishikesh, Kotdwar, Dehradun, Haridwar, Badrinath
and Gangotri.
FOOD AND SHELTER
To stay here, one can
find dharamshalas, ashrams, and tourist bungalows of Garhwal Mandal
Vikas Nigam (GMVN). Food in the eating joints along Kedarnath's main
street is simple but expensive, as all supplies have to be brought up
from the valley on horseback. The canteen run by the temple committee,
Shri Badrinath Kedarnath Mandir Samiti, serves good quality food. It
should be noted that non-vegetarian food and liquor are not available
here.
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