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ANTIQUITY
The people of
Mandi proudly boast that while Kashi (Benaras) has only 80 temples,
Mandi has 81! And it is no idle boast. J.C. French supported their
assertion when he described the town as a miniature Benaras with
innumerable temples, old houses, long flights of steps, the streets
steep and winding and the market place with an aura of medieval
picturesque ness. In 1919 one tourist actually counted 49 places of
worship in Mandi. Built of rough stone in a shikara (houseboat) style
they could be seen all over the town on the right and left of the river
Beas.
The town’s antiquity is
established by the Triloknath temple which was built around 1520 A.D.
Mandi seems to have derived its name from the Sanskrit word ‘Mandoika’
meaning an open hall or shed. It was also well known to the Tibetans who
called it Zahor.
TEMPLES
On a high ground is
situated the temple of Shyama Kali also known as Tarna Devi, one of the
goddesses of Hindu mythology. It is dedicated to the consort of Lord
Shiva. According to Hindu philosophy a woman has two sides to her
nature, one extremely tender and the other highly ferocious. In this
temple the divine consort of Lord Shiva is depicted as Kali or Shakti
(power) full of fury. The legend goes that once the goddess started
dancing and the dance began slowly. Gradually the tempo increased and
reached a peak of frenzy. In her ecstasy, her movements, which were
delicate and graceful at the start, became wild and terrifying like the
tremors of an earthquake. The earth shook and vibrated under the impact
of her movements. Panic stricken, people ran to Shiva for help. He
obliged them by lying down in her path. Kali stepped on Shiva’s
prostrate figure but as soon as she realized who it was, she stopped in
her tracks. The idol depicts her in the Rudra Roop or the fearsome form
with a garland of human skulls and protruding tongue.
FESTIVITIES
With a rich legacy of
venerated temples, it is natural that religious festivals like
Janmastami and Shivratri are celebrated at Mandir with much fervor.
Janmastami, the birthday of Lord Krishna, is observed as a state
function with perfect decorum. The main ceremony takes place in the
temple of Madho Raj. The idol of the child Krishna is placed in a small
cradle covered with gold brocade and suspended from the rafters by
silken cords. The Raja himself, who arrives in procession followed by
his nobles and officials, decks up the idol with flowers, anoints it,
placing his offering of fruits and sweets at the altar to the
accompaniment of devotional music provided by (shankh) Conch shells,
temple bells and massive drums called nagaras.
By far the most
important religious festival is Mahashivratri when the village deities
are carried to Mandi to the temple of Baba Bhootnath. This temple is
dedicated to Lord Shiva. From far-flung villages these deities are
brought in richly decorated palanquins swaying on the shoulders of the
devotees to the singing of devotional songs and blowing of conch shells.
The devotees believe that at the time of drought, water drawn from the
Beas and poured on the idol of Baba Bhootnath, brings rain by the time
the poured water drains back in to the Beas. The Shivratri fair lasts
for about eight days and is inaugurated by the Chief Minister of
Himachal Pradesh. The palanquins with the deities are assembled in the
main ground of Mandi. The people in their multicolored robes and
skullcaps present a glorious sight against the backdrop of the
Dhaulagiri hills. So much color and gaiety can only be witnessed either
at Mandi or at Kullu during Dussehra in October.
INTERESTING SITES
Sati pillars called
barselas in the local dialect are erected on the left bank of the Suketi
Bridge. These six to seven feet high stone pillar are erected in the
memory of the deceased rulers of Mandi. When one died it was required by
custom to put up such a pillar to perpetuate his memory. His likeness
was chiseled on the pillar with his name, date of death along with the
names of his wives, concubines and slave girls who perished on his
funeral pyre to provide him company in distant world.
The most conspicuous
monument is the palace of the Raja of Mandi, which stands in the
southern part of the town and presents a number of tall white buildings,
with roofs like those of the Chinese pagoda.
About 25 km from Mandi
town and 6000 feet above sea level, on the crest of Sikandhar Dhar is
the Rewalsar Lake, a place of Pilgrimage. The lake is dotted with seven
huge masses of reeds, which give the appearance of small floating
islands when the breeze is strong. There are three shrines by the lake,
a Buddhist monastery, a temple and a gurudwara (Sikh temple).
GETTING THERE
By Air Bhuntar Airport of Himachal Pradesh is the nearest,
63 km (flight from Delhi via Chandigarh).
By Rail - Nearest station is Kiratpur 125 km away.
By Road - Approachable by road via Chandigarh (200 km),
Pathankot (205 km), Shimla (165 km), Kullu (71 km), Delhi (465 km) and
Manali (107 km). Himachal Pradesh Tourism Development Corporation runs
deluxe buses form Mandi to Manali, Kullu, Chandigarh, Shimla and Delhi.
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